Car wont idle properly?

Question

Recently my check engine light went on. I had a diagnostics performed to learn that it was a bad engine coolant temp sensor. I bought the part, replaced it, and unplugged the battery for about 20 minutes to reset the computer. Now when i turn on my car, it stalls right away. I'll have to restart it again maybe 2 more times before it idles, and even then the rpm's are really low as if its about to stall again. Any ideas?

Answer 1

Your computer will have to relearn the idle and air fuel mixture strategies and depending on how much you drive it could take a while . The other guy might be right about the throttle plates being dirty .So i would check them first . Also make sure that nothing came unplugged around where you did the temp sensor like vacuum lines or intake hoses or any other sensors . Also feel free to use any good oil that you want as long as it is changed often enough you're fine .

Answer 2

Since you recently replaced your temperature sensor, it could be that the device is not working properly and you may've even put a faulty one in (unlikely though). Double-check your installation and even try starting over that installation, just to be sure...



Also, weird idling like that could indicate bad spark plugs (due to misfires), ignition coils, spark plug cables, or the device they connect to which is the distributor cap (or in new cars, the ignition coil). I know it sounds unlikely as well, but I recently had a very similar issue with a Toyota Corolla (2003) that had to get new plugs after we replaced the temp sensor, because re-hooking the battery sent a good jolt to the plugs.



If it's one of the items I listed, these are MUCH cheaper to to replace than throttle bodies, and you can usually test those components at an autozone or place like it, on the way home for free.



Try that to help scratch off more potential problems.



All of these answers may help, and are far cheaper solutions than flat out replacing some major components. Try these first to help dwindle down your problem. (Which judging by the year, may be much simpler.)

Answer 3

you either got a defective sensor or



you need to go through a relearn procedure... Disconnecting the battery isn't a good thing to do with these newer vehicles. You hook up the scan tool and delete the present codes ( but they stay in history )

Answer 4

YEP!!! I KNOW what's wrong. You have decided to keep the identity ofyour car a secret, huh?? NOT ALL Cars are EXACTLY the same. but YOURS is telling me that your IAC and THROTTLE BODY are jambed up with ENGINE SLUDGE and ACIDIC vapors. They FINE TUNE your air/fuel mixture and go OFF kilter from using engine oils that MAKE sludge and create excessive amounts of ACIDIC vapors. ANyways, take $20 to ANY wuicky lube and have them CLEAN your T body and IAC to SHOWROOM, HOSPITAL CLEAN. This will stop your problem and get you MORE power and MORE fuel mileage. GOOD LUCK! WHAT KIND OF CAR IS THIS ANYWAYS!!! MORE INFO ABOUT CAR TYPE WOULD BE BEST HERE!!!! A dirty IAC valve does NOT show up in engine code problems. NEVER use REGULAR oils in that engine AGAIN. Your TOYOTA was designed to use FULL SYNTHETIC Oil and NOTHING ELSE. SYNTHETIC oil makes little to NO engine sludge that RUIN engine sensors and CLOG up converters and O2 sensors. NO MORE CHEAP OIL CHANGE BARGAINS, thank you!