do it yourself paint jobs (car)?

Question

i want to paint my car myself, but im not really sure where to start... there is no body damage.... advice?

Answer 1

Go to paint shops and talk to painters get advice. Also ask if they have any left over paint, scrap hoods and fenders. Take them home and practice,practice and practice.

Answer 2

Not to sound like a prude, but, unless you have experience in autobody I would not recomend it. Its not just having the right tools to paint a car its the experience that makes it look good. Anyone can do a rattlecan job but it takes hard work to have a worthwhile finish. Its the small things that matter. Just because you have access to an hvlp gun doesn't make you a painter either. There are different adjustments for primer/sealer, color coat and clear. Also you have to make sure the air is the driest and cleanest possible. Any amount of oil or moisture will ruin the best paintjob. Most paints come in a system also, base/clear, singlestage, lacquer, enamel. I would recomend base clear for the ultimate finish. And you would need sandpaper from grades 120 to 2000 to properly level your finish. Also a buffer to bring out the high gloss after it is cured. Sorry its kinda bunched together but its been a long day.

Answer 3

Any paint job is only as good as the prep work. Sand the car with wet/dry sand paper (grit depends on how much of the old paint needs to be removed to provide a smooth surface, I'd start with 400 and finally 1000.) Be sure and wash the entire car with a mild mixture of soap and water.Once the painted surface is entirely smooth tape and paper (use a real masking paper and tape, 'Eastwood.com' is a good source for all painting supplies).

Wipe the painted surface with a prepaint solvent then go over it with a clean 'tack' cloth to remove any residual dust or foreign matter. I always use a 'primer-sealer' first to keep any of the old paint from bleeding through. Be sure the garage or area where you are painting the car is clean and free of dust (use plastic sheeting where needed). Water down the floor so that it is damp (to much water on the floor can be splashed on the car by your feet or air hose). Use a good quality air gun (HVLP) and make sure the air supply has a filter in it to keep any moisture or contaminates out of your paint. Be sure to use the paint manufactures recommendations for mixture and air pressure settings.

This is a lot of work but very worth it when you can admire the great job you've done!

Answer 4

It's not an easy thing to do. If you have a garage, wrap all the walls and ceiling with polyethylene film. That will prevent dust and dirt from falling on the wet paint. Close the garage door part way. But you have to have some ventilation.



Hose down the floor with water to prevent dust kickup.



Wear a really good respirator (not one of those cheap dust masks).



Rent or buy a HVLP spray gun. Those spray with low pressure and cut down on orange peel effect in the paint.



Clean the entire car with SCAT cleaner to remove wax. Then mask off all the handles and windows. Don't use newspaper for this--use plastic film. (Paint can bleed through the newspaper) Mask off the tires too.



Start spraying with the roof (you'll need a ladder) and then the hood and trunk.



It's a big job.



Rick



I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

Answer 5

No, you do not could buff and varnish your automobile after a paint activity. there is even nevertheless a reason that this custom is finished. once you stick to paint to a automobile, it would not circulate out gently. this is named orange peel. The orange peel reasons the paint to lose the potential of sparkling contemplated image. What they do is moist sand the paint end with 1500 or 2000 grit moist sand paper and knock down the extreme spots and then buff and varnish it to resume the shine. This makes a extra clever reflective floor and makes the paint activity shine extra. however if it somewhat is a each and on a daily basis driving force, and you're pleased with the shine, only force it. by way of the years with popular washing and waxing the paint activity will final the comparable volume of time climate you buff and varnish it or not. in case you prefer teach high quality, then definately moist sand, buff and varnish. i'm hoping this suggestion replied your question. in case you have any furthur questions, enable me comprehend and that i would be happy to make sparkling for you.

Answer 6

ITS A BIG JOB , A LOT OF STEPS AND A LOT OF EQUIPMENT TO BUY OR RENT / BORROW , BUT HERE GOES . # 1 AT LEAST A 4 - 5 HP / 20 - 30 GALLON COMPRESSOR # 2 A GOOD PRODUCTION PAINT GUN THAT WILL REQUIRE AT LEAST10 CFM , I COME FROM THE OLD SCHOOL & DON'T USE A "HVLP" TYPE # 3 TWO 3 / 8 " HOSES 50 'EACH . # 4 A PRESSURE REGLULATOR / WATER FILTER . NOW TO THE PREP . GET A GALLON OF WAX AND SILACONE REMOVER , WASH THE ENTIRE CAR WITH THE WAX / SIL. REMOVER . STRIP OFF ANY CHROME , HEADLIGHTS , MARKER LIGHTS , TAIL LIGHTS , FRONT & REAR BUMPERS ANYTHING YOU CAN REMOVE , THIS IS TO KEEP MASKING TO A MINUM , AND MAKE IT EASER TO SAND . GET A BUCKET OF WATER , A SPONGE , 400 3M WET / DRY SAND PAPER , KEEPING THE SANDPAPER WET SAND THE WHOLE CAR AND WASH WITH SPONGE AND DRY NOW REWASH WITH WAX / SIL. REMOVER . MASK THE CAR WITH 3 / 4 " TAPE AND PAPER .IF YOU HAVE ANY SCRATCHES OR DINGS YOU HADN'T SEEN BEFORE NOW IS THE TIME TO USE SPOT & GLAZE PUDDY AND SAND TO PERFECTION . ( REMEMBER PAINT WON'T HIDE ANYTHING , ONLY MAGNEFY THE IMPERFECTION . ) WASH ALL SANDING DUST OFF . IF THE BODY LOOKS PERFECT YOU CAN LOAD UP THE PAINT CUP WITH PRIMER SEALER AND ADJUST THE PRESSURE AT THE GUN TO 30 - 35 LBS AND SPRAY THE CAR I LIKE TO RAISE THE HOOD A COUPLE INCHES ,START WITH RIGHT FRONT FENDER AND GO DOWN THE SIDE ALSO DO THE TRUNK THEN GO TO THE ROOF ON PASS. SIDE AND PAINT THAT HALF THEN GO AROUND CAR TO DRIVER SIDE DO ROOF THE REST FROM THE CENTER TO THE OUTSIDE EDGE THEN TO DRIVERS REAR FENDER AND START FOWARD WITH THE HOOD BEING LAST . LET DRY AND CHECK IT OUT IF ITS GOOD ENOUGH YOU CAN DO THE COLOR COAT . IF IT IS NOT GO BACK AND REDO THE BODY WORK OR SAND OUT ANY RUNS ( RUNS WILL SHOW THRU THE COLOR IF YOU LEAVE THEM IN ) . WHEN YOU PAINT THE CAR , IF IT HAS RUBBER BUMPER COVERS DO NOT PAINT THEM AT THIS TIME , THEY WILL NEED A FLEX AGENT ADDED TO THE MIX . DO ALL YOUR MIXING IN A PYREX MIXING JAR AND DO IT EXACTLY TO THE LINE AS IT CALLS FOR . I LIKE DITZLER POLYURTHANE ENAMEL AND ALWAYS USE HARDNER , YOU CAN REDO THE NEXT DAY IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM , WITHOUT HARDENER YOU NEED TO WAIT 2 WEEKS TO REWORK .NOW IF THE PRIMER SEALER DON'T LOOK AT ALL GOOD , YOU NEED TO PRIME THE AREAS OR WHOLE CAR WITH PRIMER SURFACER ( ITS HEAVY BUILD ) , AND SAND IT SMOOTH WITH YOUR 400 SANDPAPER , THEN WHEN DONE RESPRAY WITH PRIMER SEALER , THEN YOUR READY TO REWASH WITH WAX / SIL. REMOVER AND THEN PAINT . TO SET UP TO PAINT RUN ONE 50 ' FOOT HOSE THEN WATER FILTER THEN PRESSURE REGULATOR THEN 50 ' OF HOSE TO YOUR PAINT GUN SET PRESSURE AT GUN FOR COLOR AT 45 - 50 LBS , PAINT TIP 1 1/2 -2 TURNS AND FAN 1/2 -3/4 TURN START THERE AND PLAY UNTILL YOU FEEL ITS RIGHT GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN

Answer 7

http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Roller+Method?t=anon



That's the "I have lots of time, but no money" method right there.