First, I recommend buying the Haynes manual for your make and model. Costs $20, and will save you a fortune. Jack up the wheel with alleged torn CV boot, and have a look. A torn rubber boot isn't awful, but it will, over time, let grease out and dirt in, so the joint will wear out. Look inside the tear, and if you don't see dirt, you likely don't have significant damage, yet, to the joint. You could replace just the boot, but the replacement will not be as good as original, because original is a tube, whereas replacement has one side split open, to allow wrapping, so there's a built in weakness. Might just wrap existing boot with a strip from a Target store plastic bag, about 3 or 4 wraps, then tie it tightly on each end with wire. This might buy several years of time, assuming the joint inside isn't already compromised.
Don't know history of car, how many miles it has, but opinions vary wildly about how bad a control arm and tie rod end must be to require replacement. If it handles OK, tire wear is even, if it tracks straight when you let go the wheel for a second, it might have a lot of safe driving left in it. While up on the jackstand, yank the tire side to side, looking for slack at the tie rod end. The control arm and tie rod end are weird joints, a lot like your shoulder bones -- want to allow rotation in 2 axes of motion while controlling rotation int he third. If it ever lets go, you stop being a driver and become a passenger with no warning -- you don't want to be there when that happens.