Dealer say it's normal. I say it's BS!?

Question

Okay; let's try this one. It's a 2006 MALIBU MAXX 3.5 V6. At normal cruise (cruise control active on level road)doing 60 MPH the tachometer reads 1700 - 1800 RPM in fourth gear. However; when we start off after the car has sat for awhile the engine turns 2100 - 2200 RPM for about 5-7 miles before settling back down to the previous reading. I've taken this car (it's still in warranty) to the dealer twice about this and they say it's normal. Am I going to be replacing a transmission the day after my warranty expires in about three months? All readings are taken with the cruise control set at 60 MPH on straight - level - paved roadways.

Answer 1

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I THINK the key to your question is in this fact. IF the tranny is permitted to "cool" down it is POSSIBLE that the shift strategy will not permit the car to go in "lock up". Lock up is a converter function that "locks" the engine to the transmission output shaft via an electrical signal from the computer.



Do this, check CAREFULLY to determine IF the tranny will shift into ALL four gears (3 shifts from a standing stop) The overdrive shift MIGHT be almost undetectable but WATCH the tach for the change. Once it is in OD and you are on level payment and STEADY cruise, watch the tach again for the "lock up" signal. (this again will be determined by a slight decrease in engine speed.



If you cannot observe this pattern try to get the dealer to take you with them to SEE if in fact the tranny IS going into OD AND it is being given the signal to go into lockup. If the signal IS given and the lockup does not occur you have a bad torque converter clutch.



The dealer has NO axe to grind with you on the issue of the car not performing right. (this does NOT excuse stupidity on thier part though) They get paid, and paid well to make repairs on a warranty basis. The separation between the OEM and the dealer is your assurance that the manufacturer is not stacking the deck against you. But, having said that, the dealer WILL NOT be reimbursed for repairs that do not need to be done. The dealer/owner drive test WITH a scan tool hooked up will tell the whole story.



Merely describing the problem to a dealer service writer often will get you the "they all do it" response.



One last point. PRESENT the car TO the dealership for the transmisison problem (will not shift into OD or lock up) with the complaint CLEARLY written on the ticket. Then, if an issue comes up AFTER the car has left the warranty period you will have SOME documentation that the issue WAS breeched to them for consideration.



PS. I SURE would like to see how Pami gets reliable mechanical work done for 20 bucks. On the other hand, maybe I DON'T want to know.



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Correct, but ON the other hand your description of being able to hold the engine to a particular throttle position in order to gage the lock function by virtue of the indicated RPM is not believable. Ergo, your complaint has some wiggle room in it for why the car is doing what you claim it to be doing.

Answer 2

The difference in your engine speed on the highway is due to the torque converter's lockup function.



Your torque converter provides the de-coupling action between the engine and transmission (like a clutch in a manual). It looks like a bagel that has been sliced in half. When the two halves are operating at different speeds (such as when stopped and the engine is running but the wheels are not turning), some of the energy of the engine is lost through the slipping of the two halves past each other..



However, at highway speeds, the converter mechanically locks the two halves together. This is done to eliminate the slipping effect, which in turn reduces the engine RPM, and increases fuel efficiency. You can actually see the effect of this the next time you are on the highway by pressing the accelator slightly (but not enough to make the car accelerate). You will notice the engine speed jump up a few hundred RPM (even though the trans is still in the same gear), as the torque converter unlocks. This means the two halves of the converter are free to turn at different speeds, and the engine has to spin a little faster to maintain road speed.



This is completely normal and it is how auto transmissions are designed to work. The fact that it doesn't lock up when first driving it is that the converter is not allowed to lock until the engine is fully warmed up.



*edit* De Duece is right on the money about both the dealer's mentality (they deal with niggling complaints like, 'My neighbor's car has 10lbs. more oil pressure than mine'), and the operation of the throttle in regards to TC lockup at highway speeds. Slight throttle changes made by the cruise control, as well as the changing properties of the trans fluid as it warms up could account for the TC appearing to 'ease into' lockup. A tech riding in the car with the scan tool running will give a far more accurate picture of what's going on than simply looking at the tachometer.

Answer 3

Like metnioned above it is probably just the lock up solenoid enganging the lock on the tourqe converter to match the tranny RPM's to the engines. And just a note it really pisses me off when people tell you its bs when they dont know anything on the subject. And lol I would never buy a ford just never.



Update: Like mentioned above usually the computer will not let the tranny lock until the engine is completely warm, or else it could possibly damage the engine. The computer will sense when the temperature has reached an acceptable level and then will send electricity to the solenoid to activate the lockup.

Answer 4

I have a Chevy Silverado truck that does the same thing Idont use the cruise but the transmission takes a while to shift when its cold and the rpms are slightly higher,but this is normal it helps take the load off untill everything is warmed up.

Answer 5

i had a similar problem with my car, except the rpms would slowly go up. i would turn the car on and let it sit, about 5 minutes later it would be at like 4500 rpms, and keep rising. when i put it in drive, it would drop back down.



they figured it out to be a idle sensor in my car, so it could be some type of sensor in yours. I would take it to a licensed garage and just have them look it over. that might cost you 20 bucks. if something is wrong, take it to the dealer to have it fixed. that way you're sure that nothing is wrong.

Answer 6

its an aligment concern or suspension verify the thread of the tires.perhaps you do dissimilar precise turns and positioned on out that tire verify the different side see if the indoors thread is worn however if that's then discover yet in any different case domicile.yet whilst its not iwould bypass talk me ideas to the broker tires could positioned on out that quickly

Answer 7

It is normal. In fact, all GM cars have been doing this (all of them) since 1981.



What you are seeing is the locking of the torque converter. In GM's engine management, they don't lock it until the engine reaches full temperature.



Like I said, every GM car since 1981 has done this. Why is it that you say it's BS? If you're so smart, why don't you fix it?

Answer 8

Sounds like a bad converter clutch, or worn o-rings in same. Pull the trans dipstick, if the fluid seems brown, and smells burnt, take it to the dealer-it's been abused or overloaded.



Be careful with the trans fluid, it will damage paint and irritate skin.

Answer 9

does it stay in the high rpms and then shifts or just lowers the rpms in the same gear

Answer 10

Another GM greatest invention! I don't think it is a problem, but certainly I would not buy another GM vehicle without the explanation from the service advisor.

Answer 11

totally normal it wont hurt the car any