Be aware that there are two different flasher units, one for signals, and one for 4-way! It is possible that both are bad, but more likely the 4 way could have been gone a long time, (but if not checked you would have no way of knowing that). So what I am saying, is that probably the blinker would not have blown, -then you put it in 4-way and that one blew immediately too!!
These fuses can "look good' and still not be good, so I would substitute a fuse from somewhere else that is the same size and see if the problem goes with it! If you have a "test light" you can pick up power from some other "hot' circuit (when car ign is on), and put one side of light there, and other side on either side of questoinable fuse, - if the light burns, you have a "circuit" (to something). At this point you can see if the brightness changes when turnsignal is set for either side! If it changes brightness, then circuit is going through t.s. circuits too! Now remove the "blinker box" for the t.s. circuit, - check with test light grounded on one side, and insert probe in each of the 2 (or 3) "plug" connections" in the fusebox (or wiring socket if not in fusebox)- you should be able to get power on at least one of these connections! If there is nothing there, then you are not getting power to the circuit from somewhere ahead of the fuse (asssuming fuse is ok). Now having concluded that there is no "direct short" anywhere between the fusebox, and the turn-signal circuit, -you can "jump" a piece of wire from one of the "ign. hot" circuits, (with key switch on), - (there is a small part of the metal "pin" on each side of the fuse that you can insert (test probe in to check), - this is a good place to "inject" power into the turn signal circuit! If you have a short it will either blow the fuse, - or make a large spark (in which case you want to get it off connection and check for shorts in t.s. line). Hopefully the turnsignal will work. At this point you have determined that the power to the fuse is missing. It is possible that you may have a "hidden" fuseable link", (as the fusable link looks like an ordrinary wire from the outside). The "link" would have a "scorched or bubbly" appearance", - if it isn't just "plain burned in two!" So you want to look for that sort of thing in the "under hood area"! If it is a link, you probably have other things hooked on the same "line" which would be not working either,- which would have to be checked for shorts too before replacing the "link"!
If a wire hooked up to the fusebox as a "jumper" works, and it is on fused side of the connection (meaning it goes through the fuse to the circuit.) And it is hooked to a circuit that goes off with the ignitin lock,- then you will probably be safe driving it this way till you get around to "really tearing into it" --when you get the time and inclination!..... When you do, you want to be equipped with a good wiring diagram, so you know what and where you are looking at for the problem. Haynes makes a pretty good manual - available in "Auto Zone" type auto supply stores! Get one that specifically covers your year, model, and make of car!