Question:
pulling the harmonic balancer problems?
gunner
2013-04-14 05:20:34 UTC
it's a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am GT. 4 cyl 2.4 liter. I am replacing the water pump and this requires removing the timing chain cover since the pump works off of it. I have 95% success up until I get to the harmonic balancer. I have tried everything to break the bolt free. 27mm socket with a breaker bar didn't work then I tried and Impact gun at 150 PSI. Is this bolt possibly reverse threaded or am I needing more AIR PRESSURE ? I had even tried an Impact punch but that was a waste of time ! I read that the torque setting was only 100 FT/lbs I need some advice. its a sucky job but I am saving around $500.00 doing it myself just in labor costs and I need it done ASAP. I've been at it now for about 16 hrs and this is the last step to get to the timing chain cover and then I am good to go ! HELP ME !!!
Four answers:
Harry
2013-04-14 05:43:44 UTC
it has normal threads and yes they dont wanna come loose ever! i use a 3/4 impact on them to get them off. are you using extensions? if so, and i bet you are, they need to be impact extensions or you loose all your bang on them twisting.

if your air doesnt pull it off, get a cheater pipe on your breaker bar. you will need to lock the engine from turning usually done with the flywheel.

also swear a lot, it seems to help when working on the gm transverse engines, they just arent a picnic for sure.

i swore id never ever touch that 4 cyl again without pulling the engine!
hobbabob
2013-04-14 06:09:49 UTC
the bolt has normal threads. and some impact guns are weak or the shop air flow is restricted, whatever.

try this: place socket and breaker bar on balancer bolt use a length of pipe over the bar handle and let this handle extension rest against a substantial frame member or the core support [not the radiator or a/c compressor IT MUST BE AGAINST SOMETHING OF SUBSTANCE PERIOD].

NOW UNPLUG THE IGNITION COIL PRIMARY WIRES.

this may become a two person event.

if you find that the socket arrangement will not hold itself in position.

YOU WILL HAVE TO HOLD IT

BE SURE NOT TO ALLOW FINGERS,FACE HANDS OR CLOTHING TO BECOME PINCHED

BETWEEN WRENCH AND FRAME.

NOW HAVE AN ASSISTANT THAT YOU--TRUST--

hit the ignition key BUMPING the engine over this may have to be repeated a couple of times to break free a really frozen bolt.

this is a very violent operation. every care must be taken as both bodily and property damage can occur, quite possibly resulting in your death. period.

once bolt is broken loose and removed you will still need a balancer puller and an installer tool.

beating on these with a hammer is never a good idea.

be sure to mark each chain cog and the chain link to ensure proper timing before you start dismantling to replace pump.

note it may be worth your while to go ahead and replace the chain, cogs, and tensioner as these engines have a history of failure of said components.
anonymous
2013-04-14 05:39:41 UTC
The bolt probably has 'loctite' on it. Did you hold the lower pulley with a clamp or bar of some type to keep it locked in place so it can't rotate? Sometimes that can make the difference. Not sure what the spec is but it will be extremely tight, plus the bolts been in there for possibly 15 years.
stickler
2013-04-14 06:04:54 UTC
what I always do, get a breaker bar with the socket on the bolt, and bump ur ignition, like try to start it, position the bar in the rite place where it would be most effective


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