Engine light wont go off after problem fix?

Question

Hi i own a chevy malibu with 98000 miles i recently got a p0011 code took it to autozone and their scanner said a bad camshaft possition sensor which i replaced. The light still on. Then i went to youtube and all the videos say the actuator selenoids need to be replaced which i just replaced with aftermarmet ones and the light still came on shortly after i reconnected the battery does anyone has an answer to this problem how can i fix it?? Thanks guys

Answer 1

Hi yes it will be as it is never as easy as just replacing it. the system, needs to be advised the part has been changed. in most cases it has more to do with the connection and not the device itself. so now it still needs to go to a Chevy dealer for this task to be done.

Answer 2

Check the wiring related to the sensor

Answer 3

Replace the Intake camshaft ACTUATOR solenoid. It is a Common failure on this vehicle! Autozone couldn't diagnose **** on a bullfrog! Lol

Answer 4

You need the procedure for clearing the codes. I don't have it. I think sone code readers will automatically clear your computer after they extract info.

Answer 5

I have noticed that many backyard mechanics think they can replace the water pump without pulling the head cover off to verify the timing chain location to TDC, then the cam drive chain will jump a few teeth with the chain guide tensioner removed and it never runs right again due to cam timing. Without knowing if your model has the VVT system, that could also be the issue if the solenoid cam advance oil valves are plugged up and nonoperational. If you just replaced the water pump, it's a sure bet your cam chain jumped a few teeth.



Jamb a big screwdriver behind the crank pulley to lock it at TDC, use a long screw driver in the #1 plug hole to find TDC. Pull the head cover off the head and verify the cam drive chain is 16 teeth apart on the chain between at 10 O'clock on the exhaust side and 2 O'clock on the intake cam gear marks. The crank pulley is behind a plastic shield on the passenger side, remove the wheel and shield to get at it with a super long socket extension and breaker bar to manually turn the engine (TDC) with the spark plugs removed.



The DOHV chain can be skipped around on the crank gear without removing the lower chain cover at TDC when you remove the exhaust cam, then get the 16 tooth count colored chain links back on the cam drive gear marks and reinstall the tensioner properly. You need snap ring pliers to disassemble the tensioner and reset the spring lock before reinstalling it. Then smack it with a socket extension inside on the chain in the head to pop it out after reinstalling it or you will damage the plastic tension chain guide. The chain marks will never line up again after setup, that's why you have to count how many tooth marks between the cams and at 10 & 2 O'clock on the position at TDC. Hand turn the crank over 4+ revolutions to make sure the valves don't collide with the pistons.



You'll have to pull the head cover off anyway to get at the solenoids under the head cover if VVT equipped.

Answer 6

Step 1: Have the code read again. You could have an additional problem that was masked by the original issue.

Step 2: IF the same code appears, have someone with a proper scanner actually clear the code, and see if it comes back.

Also note: There are ALWAYS more than one reason for any given code. Perhaps the sensor itself was a SYMPTOM, not the root cause of the problem.

Answer 7

You should check the timing marks are still in sync. A new cam belt is past due.

Answer 8

I no longer recommend people have auto parts stores read their OBD codes. They can pull the codes as well as anybody else, and can tell you the code definition, but that is a long way from knowing what is going on. Most codes that mention an O2 sensor are not caused by a bad sensor but auto parts stores will sell you the sensor anyway. That is what happened here. The code P0011 is "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1). The sensor was still working okay and reporting a cam timing problem.



The best approach is to take it to your mechanic. He will figure out what is going on more quickly (and inexpensively) than random parts guys will and he won't introduce new problems. The most likely fix is replacement of the intake camshaft actuator solenoid. For what it is worth, thebax2006 is right that this is often due to the use of substandard oil or too infrequent oil changes. You don't mention the year but since 2011 GM has mandated dexos level 1 oil (essentially, synthetic) for all its engines. It is a good standard for all modern engines.

Answer 9

If you haven't been changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles or 5,000 miles when using synthetic oil this is a common problem. There are passageways and screens feeding the oil to the solenoids which plug up and need cleaning. The cam advance actuators can also quit working properly due to old dark oil. If you know you have good oil pressure at the solenoids the actuators are likely a problem. A Tech II factory scan tool has the ability to test the solenoids and read the cam degrees to help diagnose the problem.

Answer 10

1st of all, here's the best site to look at when the check engine light (CEL) is lit in the vehicle - https://www.obd-codes.com/p0011.............you can use that site and enter any code to get this info : what caused the code to be displayed / what needs to be done for a repair



the thing that some people don't do, after repairs are done, is to have the OBD tool reattached so the code(s) can be erased from the ECU...........that's what your vehicle is doing............some people will remove a battery cable for a few hours thinking that will erase the code BUT the code will again show, causing the CEL to be lit

Answer 11

Try making sure all your electrical connections are clean and sealed. They make a clear grease that you put on the connectors to ensure proper continuity

Answer 12

Take it garage may be a sensor

Answer 13

You have to. CLear the codes in the computer or unplug the battery for 15 minuets

Answer 14

Most codes persist through a number of heat cycles, typically 3. So if you don't clear the codes you will have to wait until you drive often enough for them to go away.

Answer 15

First, the Check Engine light means that there is a fault code stored in the ECM/PCM (computer) memory.



Next, if the fault is removed, the Check Engine light will shut itself off AFTER about 50 engine starts. Otherwise you have to erase the ECM/PCM memory. Then the light will go off, and stay off if there is no further problem. If the problem remains it stores another fault code and the light is back on.



So when the Check Engine light is on, you have to do THREE things. Find and repair the problem(s) AND erase the memory.



There is a problem with AutoZone and other auto parts code readers. The code that they present to you is correct, but they have a big list of of generic interpretations of exactly what the code means.



If you look up code information in a service guide for your exact car, there will only be one reason for each code.



Check whether your city library or nearby junior college library has an online subscription to Alldata. Then look up your exact car for the code info.

Answer 16

"Throwing parts" is not the way to fix cars. You need to troubleshoot. It is time to see a professional with a scanner with directional control capability and a labscope. Timing is off or timing chain or timing chain sprocket could be bad or there is an electrical issue.

Answer 17

If it has one of those EcoWreck (Tech) engines in it the timing chain has jumped.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEEuyunUhgs