What does it mean when my car's engine warning light flashed for a few seconds and then went off? The car was also stuttering?

Question

Stuttering as if it was going to switch off any second, when I drive it at fast speed, it's better...but at slower speeds, the stuttering becomes worse. The engine warning light is not constantly on and it's not blinking either...it just shows up and flashes for a few seconds and then goes off. Can the issue go away by itself? What could it be? It's a Renault Clio III btw with 50,000 km mileage, if that's going to help.

Funny, I took it for full-service 2 months ago hoping everything would stay good (even though I had no problem with it at all). And now in spite of doing all the yearly recommended servives and parts changes, it's again acting funny? I'm pissed.

Answer 1

The check engine light (CEL) flashes on when the computer sees a problem with the engine operation and goes back off if the problem stops. From what you describe, it sounds like a misfire which is causing the engine to lose power/stumble/stutter and it sets the CEL light to come on briefly. If the problem were worse, the CEL light would stay on and the engine/computer would go into limp mode with restricted power if possible...enough to drive at low speeds to a safe location usually. Given the age/mileage of the car, it's likely due for a tuneup but you say that all recommended service has been done to it. They may not have done a tuneup if not due for it or just waiting until it starts to run rough. Other issues could cause a misfire so a shop would need to scan for any stored trouble codes on the computer which may help diagnose the problem such as a failing ignition coil, bad plug wires, clogged injectors, weak fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, etc.. Some problems may not trip a trouble code so other tests may be required. Have a shop scan it for trouble codes and add those to the question for more details or ask a new question with the codes included...some parts stores scan the codes for free...at least here in the US.... but trouble codes don't always tell the whole story as to what the problem is. Further testing may be needed to pinpoint the issue.

Answer 2

Many of the engine sensors are reset-able upon recovery, A good ODB II scan tool can get the old engine flags out of the ECM buffer so you can diagnose the issue. You can get use of a simple scan tool at most auto parts stores for free. This is often times an electronic EGR valve plugged up if you let the car warm up and then the CEL check engine light goes away. Then you pull R&R / clean the EGR (exhaust gas return) solenoid valve and the problem goes away.

Answer 3

The check engine light comes on and stays on when the computer detects a malfunction with your engine. If your check engine light is flashing it means you are running so poorly that you will cause damage to the catalytic converter(s). It sounds to me like you have a serious miss-fire cause by a failed ignition system component. When you're engine is cold your engine is running rich. Also, accelerating through lower speed puts more load on an engine. Both of these conditions puts excess strain on secondary ignition components. Id put $20 on a failed ignition coil.

Answer 4

Check for stored codes. Every time it flashes it sends a code. The code will lead you to the problem. You are lucky you are getting a code! Once you have the code, if the OBD scanner doesn't tell you what it is, look it up on the internet. Likely a sensor or a bad coil pack or plug. If it says "misfire, cylinder (x), you know it is either a coil pack or a plug. Start with new plugs if you have over 50k on the old ones. They are cheap. Coil packs can get expensive, if you have to replace that only buy one unless you have to buy a whole loom of them at a time. But don't do that unless you have replaced your plugs. (I am assuming you do NOT have a distributor.)

Answer 5

I'm not sure what the rules/regulations are in Europe, or if your cars require catalytic converters...but a lot of the time when the check engine light comes it's due to either your fuel system or emission control system and their sensors/filters. Like others have said, auto parts stores will usually check it for free.

Answer 6

The check engine light came on when the car was 'stuttering' to tell you that it was missing. The light started flashing to tell you that the catalytic converter was in danger of overheating and melting.

Answer 7

There are many electronic controls on EFI engines - no amount of maintenance would be able to detect future problems - you could have an Idle control valve failing, and Mass Air Flow valve misreading or a Oxygen sensor failing - plus a few more that could potentially cause your issues - NONE of them are maintenance items. The good news is that because you have been keeping up with maintenance you can in all probability eliminate the normal maintenance items (spark plugs, filters, fluids) without the need to replace parts to get to a baseline.

Answer 8

You have a bad misfire in the motor. Go get the codes read for free at an auto store so you know what cylinder is misfiring. Start with spark plugs and plug wires if you have wires. Next if it happens again you need to swap a fuel injector from the misfiring cylinder to another cylinder. Then erase the codes and when the CEL comes back on have the codes read to see if the misfire has moved to the cylinder you put the injector in.

Answer 9

Did they check the alternator or fuel pump? Your idle also might be set too low. From, what you say can't function at low rpm. That could be caused by a bunch of different things, maybe something so bizarre as a clogged fuel line or exhaust problem. There are way too many factors. Maybe you have oil problems. Maybe they have to reset the engine timer (mileage). The only help you're going to get is from a professional.



It might be something simple like bad fuel.

Answer 10

That sounds like what one of my previous cars did when its spark plugs were bad. The check engine light would come on and go off later. It never flashed on and then off, but the car never seemed to stutter at higher speeds. Take it in and ask to have the spark plugs checked.

Answer 11

When the check engine light stays on, it sets a hard code in the ECM. When it is temporary like yours it sets a soft code. Both types can be downloaded using a scan tool. Here in the US we can go to most auto parts stores and they will pull codes for free, even offering solutions to fix the problem.

Answer 12

Sometimes you will have a "dummy" light that can come on for multiple reasons, if you notice any issues with the vehicle then I would get it checked out but from what you describe this could occur from loose sensors, bad battery, etc, never hurts to plug in a code reading tool to see what the error is.

Answer 13

Nothing, it is how some cars start up, all cars have the lights flashing like that when starting up and then goes away.

But it also is time for you to ge your oil and lube change, you're supposed to do this every 3000 miles.

Answer 14

sometimes you shall have a "dummy" light that can come on for multiple reasons, if you notice any issues with the vehicle then i would get it checked out but from what you describe this could occur from loose sensors, bad battery, etc, never hurts to plug in a code reading tool to see what the error is...

Answer 15

auto zone will scan the computer for you for free. they will tell you what code pops up.

usually engine light is an O2 sensor. but could also be a few other things. sputteringusually means a fuel issue. could need to run a fuel cleaner through or anot air filter is clogged up. could also be low on oil.

Answer 16

Year and model? engine light it go on for many reasons ,such as oil pressure ,transmission,Air flow sensor fail ,fuel problem ,electrical problems,Oxygen sensor fail,head cylinder problem ,ring or piston problem .It seem you have air flow problem ,which idol in low RPM it go lower than 750 and car is going to turn off and shake .change the air filter and check the air flow sensor.

Answer 17

You are using a wrong type of OIL AND YOIUR THROTTLE BODY AND IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE now have baked in **** on them. When they are in this condition, the O2 get irritated as it tries to protect the converter from over heating. The solution is simple. get a can of AMSOIL POWER FOAM and GUMOUT. Remove the intake duct to access the IAC an T body. Clean them to SHOWROOM clean. open the butterfly and clean it also with a toothbrush. Rinse with GUMOUT! Run BOTH cleaners through the PCV VALVE so the piston tops get cleaned up. The ONLY type of oil to use carries the NAME of your car on it! TOTAL ENERGY OIL and MOTUL make superb oil for your Renault! POWER WASH your engine with GUNK ORANGE at a DIY car wash. This keeps road salt and debris from getting at your wiring harnesses. Once the IAC is fully clean, it will STOP stalling and acting up! Proper AIR supply will be restored and the computer can adjust the amount of AIR getting into the engine! It is QUITE simple. ALSO get DENSO TWIN TIP IRIDIUM plugs installed for MORE POWER and FUEL MILEAGE! Use ONLY proper oil with RENAULT SPEC NUMBERS on it! This is NOT the same as viscosity ratings. A DIRTY IDLE AIR CONTROLLER will starve your engine for AIR and then you stall! The IAC controls the idle of course and if the idle is TOO LOW it will trigger issues. It is VITAL that the IAC and T body are HOSPITAL FLOOR CLEAN! Bad oil is EVERYWHERE! Only the ones with the name RENAULT on it will be proper synthetic oils approved for use in your engine! IF IN DOUBT< use TOTAL ENERGY OIL from FRANCE for RENAULT! It's the best I know of on earth besides RAVENOL from Germany. They PREVENT the formation of sludge tar wax and coke INSIDE the engine and on your sensors! It even protects gaskets and seals from leaking. You MUST clean these two things BY HAND! you will see it with the intake BOOT removed. Run AMSOIL POWER FOAM through your PCV system to clean piston tops and rings .DENSO TWIN TIP plugs will increase performance and MILEAGE too as well as preserve he converter and exhaust!

Answer 18

Flashing sounds like a misfire

My jeep had that and it was a sensor for the crankshaft.

But you have those edgy unreliable euro cars sooooooo

Your facked

Answer 19

It's bad.

Answer 20

HI So the engine managemeant has issues so get it in for an diagnostics check and service.

Answer 21

Welcome to the wonderful world of car ownership. Sounds to me as you need a new fuel filter and perhaps a fuel pump from what you have described it.

Answer 22

When is the last time you checked the oil level?

Answer 23

Look it up in the owners manual .

Answer 24

You have problems Sis.

Answer 25

bad misfire in motor

Answer 26

Probably your TPS is out