Question:
Strange cooling system problem (99 Buick Century Custom)?
anonymous
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Strange cooling system problem (99 Buick Century Custom)?
Eleven answers:
dismukes
2016-12-25 02:33:40 UTC
99 Buick
?
2016-10-06 07:45:29 UTC
99 Buick Century
anonymous
2016-03-17 03:41:34 UTC
A lot actually: 1. Random things, unexpected happenings 2. Little odd movements 3. Lots of people doing the exact same thing at once 4. Confusing people 5. Creeping people out Thats a for strange Libera moon
?
2016-01-30 02:00:52 UTC
strange cooling system problem 99 buick century custom
Ranique
2015-08-24 00:13:03 UTC
This Site Might Help You.



RE:

Strange cooling system problem (99 Buick Century Custom)?

As of late ive been noticing a strange issue with my engine temperature and cooling system. For about the past week the engine has been heating up pretty fast (non-idle), way faster than normal, and blowing cold air out of the vents. It seems like the thermostat finally kicks on when the needle is...
anonymous
2011-04-06 16:15:57 UTC
low coolant , weak water pump or as you said theromastat what ive been reading no body has mentioned that this car has coolant bleed procedure 1 or 2 little bleed valves in coolant pipe or thermostat housing light comes on and off while running you are draining your over flow tank which means air pocket in system
Lee
2011-04-06 15:49:02 UTC
Replace the thermostat.It might be sticking or not opening completely.
helpful bob
2011-04-06 18:25:00 UTC
Sounds the engine coolant temperature sensor and thermostat,electric fan thermostat need to be replaced and then the quality/mixture of the coolant tested with a anti-freeze tester.Be sure that it's not the original old coolant and if it is change it asap but otherwise be sure it's mixed about 50/50.After that remove the reservoir or rad cap start it up cold and wait for the coolant to over flow that should force air out but you may need to shut it off top it off a few times after it cools down and bleed it a few times.I'd shop around for a water pump for it that isn't too expensive or go to a U pull auto wreckers and get one but regardless I'd probably change it.



Be sure to check all the cooling system look for severe rust or corrosion , check the metal lines/fins for softness or if you notice heavy green corrosion at the ends where the tubing bends etc it's time for a new or replacement rad.One way you can tell also is the purity of the coolant and if it's not clean that might tell you that the rad is rusted etc internally too.You could have a coolant system done performed on it but from what you're saying it sure sounds like the coolant system just needs a basic over haul.



Go over all the rad hoses/rad clamps, engine be sure that you don't have a faulty hose or any coolant leaks etc.Take a good look at the water pump pulley if it's wobbling or making odd sounds this would tell you that it requires replacing, also check the pulley make sure it's not leaking.



Make sure that the low fan is engaging just before the temperature gauge gets to half way if not the fan thermostat might be faulty or you've a faulty fuse/relay/fan/wiring.Normally if the A/C is turned with the engine running and the A/C compressor is working the high fan system will engage so be sure that it's working.







Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way if it was me and I wanted to save money etc I'd probably start with the temperature sensor, thermostat and testing the coolant's quality , plus checking the coolant system for any leaks etc and then work from there.Remember when it comes to temperature sensors they tend to corrode too and this gives the temperature gauge and coolant system improper readings, plus the engine won't run the proper temperatures.You want the whole coolant system up to par bec not only does the over all operation of the engine/transmission work a lot better you also save on fuel etc too.
Paul
2011-04-06 15:57:09 UTC
"Cooling System Service Time"; New Thermostat should 185 to 195 Full Open (at about 140 Degrees the Thermostat Slowly starts to open till full open), Remove Thermostat, Boil/Flush Out Cooling System (Heater Set to Hot, Fan Off), Install New Thermostat, Add Coolant. "Back Flush" Heater Core and Replace "Hot Water Control" for Heater also sounds (From the Squealing) you talk about you blower is burning out. [Check to make sure the Radiator Fan is cycling "As the Engine Heats & Cools" Properly]
Country Boy
2011-04-06 16:53:32 UTC
If you have been mixing brands and chemical types of antifreeze by now your heater-core radiator and water-jackets are filled with a sticky brown/black muddy mess. Your car should have Dexcool antifreeze with no other chemical type mixed with it. If you see any discoloration underneath the radiator cap the system should be drained flushed and cleaned. If the cooling system is really nasty it may need GM's one part acid cleaner after the system has been flushed with clear water.



Lets do a little test first. Install a new AC Delco 195 degree thermostat. Jack-up the side of the car where the radiator cap is when the engine is stone cold. The radiator should be filled to the top. Install a new AC-Delco radiator pressure cap. Fill the plastic coolant recovery tank 3/4 full at this time also.



During your question at no time did you say what your temperature gage was reading on the dash. How do you know exactly when the thermostat opens?



It sounds as if you've been mis-led how your thermostat, heater and radiator work to keep an even temperature in your engine. Assuming your heater-core or radiator isn't plugged and the system is full of coolant and the thermostat is working normally the heater will get hot before the temperature gage registers much heat at all. When you start a cold engine the water-pump circulates coolant through the engine and heater core long before the thermostat opens.



You can tell when the thermostat finally opens by wrapping one of your hands around the upper radiator hose just after starting the cold car. As pressure starts to build it will be harder to squeeze. If the thermostat is operating normally it will open when the dash gage reaches 195 degrees. The upper radiator hose will be too hot to handle without a leather glove on your hand.



If the system is full and you've checked it but the dash gage is bouncing around you need a new temperature gage electrical sending unit in the water-jacket of the motor.
Kyle
2011-04-06 15:42:52 UTC
Cracked head gasket had 2 vehicles (99' jimmy and an 03' honda) that did the same thing and its cause your leaking coolant I/E its evaporating take it to the garage to get it checked before it gets worse and you do damage to your engine like I did, I had to have a full engine job cause of it. Also it might be a clogged heating core but I doubt it sounds too much like the problem I had.



Also also not all crack head gaskets will give off white smoke.


This content was originally posted on Y! Answers, a Q&A website that shut down in 2021.
Loading...