I'm not familiar with type so this is my opinion only but backed by 20yrs in trade and experience as a Master Tech on Ford and Mazda, You did'nt say if it had always been "Catless" or just had the cat removed but heres a few thoughts,
1/ Get it checked at a garage on a 4 gas analyzer typical correct readings for a non cat would be in the order of O2 1 to 4%, Co 1 to 3%, Co2 12 to 14%, HC 150 to 300ppm, the sooty or dripping tailpipe would tend to show serious departures from norm not the very fine deviation from proper setting.
2/ Didnt mention either if fuelling was done by Injection or Carburettor. for either you will need a manual to locate the Co adjust screw, a Carb it will be near the bottom of the Carb body but you may find there are several, twin barrel units have may have one each or only one if its a progressive type, also may have air bleed screws for fine idle, you realy will need a manual, Most cars from mid eighties now have fuel injection and all cars from 92 in the uk have Cats hence previous observation re Non Cat OEM,
3/ For non cat there will be a trimmer pot either located under the bonnet at some location on inner wing or there abouts, or more awkwardly it will be Built into the Injection control unit which may be difficult to access, another older injection type had a fuel distributor mounted in the air filter box and fed the injectors via reinforced pipes, this version had a 3mm allen screw at the side of the air outlet pipe accessed thro a tube.
4/ If it had a cat on as OEM then there will be NO adjustment for mixture, these systems use and O2 sensor in the exhaust and continually trim the fueling to the correct amount referd to as Lambda 1.0 (This figures on your 4gas sheet also 1.0 perfect < 1 lean >1 Rich ) if this is rich or lean you will need to adress basic engine problem (air leaks missfires etc) or injection problems (High fuel pressure, sensor / wiring faults)
The charm will be knowing which fuelling system you have and what the 4gas results are