Question:
Help?! car jerking (almost like the e brake is on) at speeds above 50 ?
southernbelle85
2011-09-22 06:23:18 UTC
When I am driving my car for more than ten or fifteen minutes at a time, when speed reaches above 50mph the car will jerk, like the e brake is on or like when someone is pulling the vehicle with a tow cable. If I slow down to below 50 the car is fine. The trans seems to be fine, fluid is at full level and car shifts smoothly into all gears. When I press the gas is When the jerking starts at around 55 mph. If I let off the gas, the jerking stops. If I try to get back up to that speed the car will jerk repeatedly and then the change engine oil light comes on. The engine does not rev up when it does this so it isn't trying to down shift. Seems like when the car jumps it also loses power. It seems like it is becoming more frequent but does not start until the engine warns up. Could this kind of thing happen just because of it needing an oil change? What could it be? Please serious answers only. It is a 2002 impala.
Six answers:
threemilepingree
2011-09-22 07:03:26 UTC
I have a 2001 Buick with the 3.8 L engine, probably the same as yours. I had a similar problem and replaced everything that controls the ignition and fuel injection. I mean everything, right up to the ICU (ignition control unit) and the ECU (engine control unit: the main computer). Nothing helped. Then I figured out it was the spark plugs. They are really hard to change (at least the back three are) so have a shop do it for you. Don't get iridium spark plugs with the tiny, pointy electrode... it burns off too quickly and then you're back to chugging within a year and need to replace the spark plugs again. Mechanics may try to talk you into them, but that's because they haven't actually used them and they're going on the sales hype. Don't listen to that.



Edit: The only code from the OBD (on-board diagnostic) was: Knock Sensor. Of course! But that was only if the knock got bad. It didn't throw that code all the time. If your "check engine" light is on, have the OBD codes checked, and if it says "knock sensor" I'll bet you that replacing the spark plugs will fix your problem.
favela
2016-12-02 02:06:49 UTC
If it truly is a stressful brake, it truly is the ABS device enticing and liberating. yet that ought to sense like a pulse, not a wobble. and that i propose an truly stressful brake. If it truly is a relentless wobble in the wheel, you need to have warped brake rotors. some shops can gadget them down so that they are flat, even though it reduces the final width of them, and subsequently the ability. in case you do not have lots money, it truly is probably a greater inexpensive determination. in case you have have been given additional funds, or the discs are previous salvation, then you incredibly'll ought to purchase new discs. as unfavourable to what's been mentioned, pads will 'positioned on in' to discs - so as that in the event that they at the instant are not fairly appropriate initially, they'll get slightly greater beneficial. it truly is discs that grow to be warped that produce a wobble in a protracted time after the motor vehicle is out of the shop. finally, do not, ever, even think of roughly, questioning approximately, thinking, even thinking servicing your brakes your self. till you're a very qualified commerce mechanic. The brakes will fail, and you will flow flying into something stressful and motionless, and die. An awful, painful, terrible and messy dying.
Carl
2011-09-22 06:50:09 UTC
Process of elimination first always remember gas ,air,and spark is all you got to have so either :water in fuel ,dirty fuel filter,ignition problems such as module,plugs n wires,cap n rotor , all which are generally replaced in a tune up or just a plain old bad computer all of which can be discovered by a free engine scan at the parts store thats assuming you dont have a bad wheel bearing which would not explain loss of power. Most newer vehicles have 5 pin diagnostic plug under dash .
anonymous
2011-09-22 06:42:51 UTC
You may have a bad tire that has shifted a belt, or other front drive train problems. It may be a sensor has gone bad which causes the car to die out at higher RPM's. Yes the engine oil will cause the engine to act funny when it gets warm and you try and drive at 50mph or more, the oil builds pressure to keep the valves opening properly. Which means weak oil, weak engine so have someone who knows cars look it over for you and take a ride. With out seeing or driving the car it is hard to say exactly what the problem is, there are so many possibles.
August
2011-09-22 06:48:11 UTC
the fuel filter is dirty and restricting flow at higher speeds.

P.S.

if you think it might need an oil change it probably does but that is not whats causing the current problem.
REV B
2011-09-22 06:30:17 UTC
It sounds like you are running out of gas. Get someone to put a fuel pressure gage to rule out a fuel problem. I would start by changing the fuel filter.


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