My car won't accelerate past 40mph on the highway?

Question

I have a 2007 Ford Taurus, 97k miles on it so far, and recently I've been having some trouble.
Since last week, my car has started to jerk (when reaching higher speeds or very low speeds), and when I brought it on the highway, it wouldn't go above 40mph. I pressed the pedal to the floor and it remained around 40, with much more intense sputtering. I replaced my battery about two months ago, and then everything was fine. But like I said, since last week, this has been happening. Sometimes I feel like it has a hard time changing gears, and when I go from park to drive, it'll make a loud noise. What do ya think?

Answer 1

1

Answer 2

The comment about the noise you get when shifting from Park into Drive - if that started the same time the loss of power started, I would be looking at the transmission -- it sounds like your torque converter is slipping at high speeds, and it is applying gears with weak pressures when you are stopped.



If you get it checked at a shop - if they offer free estimates, they can't charge you money for saying it is okay or it has a problem - and the transmission is running correctly, then the extreme loss of power is most likely due to a major signal input to fuel management functions in the ECU. Most likely loss of Mass Air Flow, Mass Air Pressure, or Throttle Position. Auto Zone will use their code reader to read your fault codes. If you are smart about it, and write down the exact code numbers, you can look those codes up on the internet and do some thinking on your own before you cave in annd let a repair shop do it. Many's the time I have gone to a You-Pull-It salvage yard and found a working ECU, MAF sensor, etc....for a tiny fraction of a new one or a 'factory reconditioned' one. Clue: if the vehicle in the yard was wrecked it has working parts (was driving fine until it hit something). If the vehicle is intact, it had some bad parts on it that kept it from running.

Answer 3

There are so many causes of this it's not easy to say. I bought my OBD III reader for $30 before they raised the price of all of em to $60 on up. The thing has paid for itself 50 times over so, you could do worse then buy one for youself.

Here's the steps i'd do.

1. Check your auto trans fluid, level and condition. Does it smell burnt, is it low? If so it MIGHT be the problem but not likely.

2. People mentioned the plugged fuel filter, yes thats possible. Fuel pump, NOT the problem, they are 99 times of 100 an on off switch-they work or they dont. Period. So try changing the fuel filter.

3. One dead fuel injector is possible. It will also, though, idle badly. If your idle is smooth, all your injectors are good.

4. Your alternator could be shot (worn out). I had this happen to me twice on two different cars and the alt light never even blinked. If this happens the car may start and run but own't deliver enough electric power at speed. Those dash lights are big liars, dont trust em. Oddly easy to check - you need a volt meter from harbor freight or somebody, they are about $5 for a cheap one and will tell you what you need to knw which is, is my alt dying off? just set the voltmeter to "20 volts DC" or whatever is close - DC is direct current and what the car uses. Put the probes, neg to neg and pos to pos, on the battery with the engine idling. What you read on the Voltmeter should be bare minimum, 13.8 v. (good range is 14.0 to 14.9v). Less then 13.8 and your alternator could be dying off - and that would also explain, perhaps, why you just changed your battery. I'd check the alt first as otherwise, you might soon need another one if the alt is bad and you don't attend to it. Could just be a loose belt, or, could be your alt is shot, but whichever it is it is a good place to start.

Answer 4

What is very easy to do to get a clue about your car problem is to have an OBD2code check done. The trouble code will tell what the problem is. You can start there or you can replace all kinds of parts until the problem goes away, or all your money is spent and still not have the problem solved. I bought my own OBD2 code reader since they're so cheap and it has paid for itself many times in avoiding expensive shop diagnosis on simple problems.

Answer 5

These are fuel conveyance arranges your machine utilizes when it needs to arrange a system around terrible data.



Since it can't react straightforwardly to the false or missing information, it has a preset arrangement parameter to stay running yet get you to the FORD administration office.



In the event that you continue driving it till the administration motor soon light wears out !



This deliberately tries to foul the attachments and consume all your gas to make you get some demonstrative help.



The laws against contamination have commanded this kind of (self destruct), in light of the fact that it can't utilize fuel securely.



Those driveability issues are a couple of parts intended to control and deal with the framework misbehaving.



they have straightforward tests and investigations to perform.



The loss of a few sensors reporting right additionally influences transmission moving. This will abbreviate the life of the trans.



The MAP or MAF perusing out of spec influences the reaction also.



Like a straightforward motor on the off chance that you put a vacuum gage on it and afterward deliberately turned the unmoving mixture out of spec, the gage drops and wavers as the unmoving surges and self revs till it fouls attachments and kicks the bucket.



Restricting what the auto will do is customized into its self running arrangement. It can't inhale right and it is going to damage the exhaust system on the off chance that you continue attempting to work it under that methodology.



I would detach the battery, change the sparkle attachments, and after that drive it a complete drive cycle.



Google those codes to comprehend them.



On the off chance that you can't tell hard blames from memory codes, then you must look for assistance from an expert. get your part list from your aftereffects of tests, and begin repairing or supplanting as it demonstrates.

Answer 6

Read the comments after this answer for quick steps.

Having your battery disconnected made it all back to normal temporarily. see what you did?

Jerking. kicking, bucking; low power, wont accellerate, max speed of 40, sputtering when throttle is opened up. (there is no mention of service engine soon light) but this is how You reported your symptoms, correct?



Then you "replaced the battery, and everything was fine."

Do you suppose it is in FMEM leading to LOS ?



These are fuel delivery plans your computer uses when it has to plan a strategy around bad information. (sensors out of range)

Since it cannot respond directly to the false or missing data, it has a preset plan parameter to stay running but get you to the FORD service department.

If you keep driving it till the service engine soon light bulb burns out !

It goes into an LOS strategy. This deliberately tries to foul the plugs and eat all your gas to make you get some diagnostic help.

The laws against pollution have mandated this sort of (self destruct), because it cannot use fuel safely.



Those driveability issues are a few parts designed to control and manage the system acting up.

They set codes. they have simple tests and inspections to perform.



The loss of some sensors reporting right also affects transmission shifting. This will shorten the life of the trans.



The MAP or MAF reading out of spec affects the response as well.



Like a simple engine if you put a vacuum gauge on it and then deliberately turned the idle mixture out of spec, the gauge drops and wavers as the idle surges and self revs till it fouls plugs and dies.

Limiting what the car will do is programmed into its self running plan. It cannot breathe right and it is going to hurt the catalytic converter if you keep trying to operate it under that strategy.



I would disconnect the battery, change the spark plugs, and then drive it a complete drive cycle.

Then read the codes in the memory at the parts store.

Google those codes to understand them.

If you cannot tell hard faults from memory codes, then you must seek help from a technician. get your part list from your results of tests, and start repairing or replacing as it indicates.



This is why Ford has a service department who helps people run cars responsibly and helps them understand their vehicle issues.

Answer 7

Check Cat Converter

Answer 8

To me - It sounds like a bad Mass Air Flow sensor. They aren't too cheap, but will certainly cause the symptoms you are describing. I would advise taking it to your local mechanic and having them assess the situation. With a bad MAF (mass air flow sensor), you should have a "check engine" light on your dash readout. The light probably blinks when it starts sputtering (meaning that there's a severe mechanical issue at hand).

It would be best to have the issue resolved before you cause any permanent damage to your drivetrain.

Good luck!

Answer 9

Plugged fuel filter or low fuel pressure.



Change the fuel filter first then take the car to a Ford dealer to have the fuel pressure tested (very inexpensive). They'll know what the fuel pressure should be.

Answer 10

Car is starving for fuel at highway speeds. Change your fuel filter and drop a bottle of "Gumout" in the tank on a fill up to clean your injectors. If that does not do the trick, replace your fuel pump.

Answer 11

This could be your plugs or wires not giving a good hump. A question you raise is whether it is slipping. A test for this is to try to drive with the break on. If the engine takes off you know it is slipping. It sounds like an engine thing.

Answer 12

I think by now you've had the check engine light on forever and it's about time you get the car to the dealer and do some maintenance. What you looking for? A magic wand to make it go away?!

Answer 13

Did you know that the speed limit in most American highways is 60 and Fords "do the best you can"

Ford isn't very fast get anything that isn't made in America instead

Answer 14

Bad plugs or wires

Head gasket about to go

Air intake clogged

Fuel filter clogged

Fuel injectors clogged

Water in the gas

Bad transmission



That list could go on, as many things could cause that. Get someone you know and trust that knows about cars to take a look at it so you don't get ripped off.

Answer 15

I'm going with Dan And 1/2 of Kenny . Restricted exhaust !!! Catalytic converter . Classic description of your condition

Answer 16

You've checked the parking brake's off?

Answer 17

All of the symptoms you give is a tell tale sign that one or a combination of three things is happening, you either have low fuel pressure, which is a sign of a bad fuel pump, a clogged fuel filter or the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is bad, Take your vehicle to a reputable repair facility to confirm that with a diagnostic check of the OBD II system to pinpoint the cause.

Answer 18

Did you know that the speed limit in most American highways is 60 and Fords "do the best you can"

Ford isn't very fast get anything that isn't made in America instead

Answer 19

Check your tranny. I had the same problem, except my car just revved up past 2nd gear, instead of shifting

Answer 20

no power sounds like the cat converter clogged up or the transmission slipping !

Answer 21

YOu are SO LUCKY ot have this GREAT FORD CAR as it is made about the BEST! LOW HIGHWAY SPEEDS indicates a clogged up FUEL FILTER< so have it changed! Many NEWER Fords do NOT have FUEL FILTERS any more, but check it ANYWAYS! STOP USING CHEAP oil changes and use ONLY MOBIL ONE 0W-30 in there! ALL FORDS love this and give BEST mileage! I got 31 with MY TAURUS in AL weather conditions! TAKE $20-40 to AN NY oil change place and have the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE removed and cleaned up to SHOWROOM clean as well as having the THROTTLE BODY cleaned up! ALL AIR entering your engine is FINE TUNED by these two items! YOu will NEVER need new injectors or even injector cleaners! ALL ISSUES are AIR related! Check the PCV VALVE and HOSES for continuity and cleanliness! DO NOT USE vALVOLINE any more as it is a SLUDGE MAKER that comes from WAX! NO FACTORY uses i, and neither should YOU! Once your FILTER is changed, and your IAC is leaned up you should have GREAT MILEAGE and power again! THE 3.0 FORD is on of the BEST engines we have out there and you can expect 400k trouble free miles fro it IF YOU KEEP THE IAC clean and use MOBIL ONE or AMSOIL or PENNZOIL ULTRA in it! ULTRA gives a 15 year 500k mile warranty on it, and OIL cHANGES are good for ONE FULL YEAR or even LONGER this way! AT about 12 years of use, the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR May begin to break down on you! SIGNS are VERY POOR STARTING and smoke from tail pipe! ANYONE can test this for FREE! IF yoU EVER had your FUEL PUMP CHANGED, have your FUEL FEED and RETURN LINES checked out for collp[asing! This id one UNDER THE cAR at any oil change place as well! GOOD LUCK!!<<

Answer 22

Get a hammer, and smash the forward compartment of your car up to 5 times until you smell an oily substance, after this step you have successfully broken your car, well done.

Answer 23

Hi,



I recommend taking your Taurus to the Ford Dealer. The service manager will be happy to take a look at your vehicle and advise the next steps.



Locate a dealer near you by clicking the link below:



http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/LocateADealer



Tricia

Answer 24

go hybrid. but seriously, it sounds like either a fuel filter issue (the sputtering) and for the low speeds your engine may not be getting enough fuel. transmission may also be going. id get it checked out,

Answer 25

If it has been cold out, you may have water in the gas that can freeze up and restrict gas flow. I hate taking my car to any garage to charge 4hr to diagnose a problem they likely knew the first five minutes.

Answer 26

Could be a defective fuel pump or partially plugged fuel filter or a defective throttle position sensor.

Answer 27

I know exactly what's wrong . Your CATALYTIC converter must be replaced . The exact same thing happened to one of my cars .

Answer 28

Either you're running out of gas or your car has an engine problem. I would take it to a mechanic if I were you.

Thanks for BA!

Answer 29

I doubt it is any mechanical failure. Likely an electrical or fueling failure. Ay any rate, take it to a certified mechanic to get it checked out.

Answer 30

Probably a clogged catalytic converter

Answer 31

no power sounds like the cat converter clogged up or the transmission slipping !

Answer 32

I think you need to bring it to a professional. It sounds like a transmission problem.

Answer 33

I can explain your problem in four words: You own a Ford.

Answer 34

Yup, transmission.

Answer 35

Blown head gaskets or broken tings

Answer 36

it could be the spark plug. if the spark plugs are weak, they might not be as accurate with creating an explosion to push the car to move.

Answer 37

Trade it for a Yugo.

Answer 38

your transmission is broken..fix it...and your spark plugs are damaged..replace them and your air into your car is not there ...replace all air filters and recycling air parts ...!!

Answer 39

Put it in D for Dat way!

Answer 40

among other possibilities, have the catalytic converter examined

Answer 41

check fuel filter

Answer 42

yes

Answer 43

My vote is transmission as well. Have you checked its fluid level?

Answer 44

The problem is that you have a ford...

Answer 45

I dont think you should be asking these questions here.

Answer 46

dd

Answer 47

service it

Answer 48

Jerking is often electrical problems.............

Answer 49

transmision

Answer 50

try nitroboost

Answer 51

sell it.

Answer 52

oh