The mechanic screwed you over. He never did a proper set of tests to diagnose a series of misfire codes, and a cam position sensor code, as well as the cat effluent code.
First thing to do: Connect engine analyzer and run engine at idle, Check alternator output voltage, fuel injector pulses, ignition system spark pulses, engine timing, manifold vacuum, exhaust and coolant temperature, and all sensor readings at idle. Based upon what is seen, shut it off and do comprehensive sub-system checks:
1) Compression check on all cylinders, and
2) inspect spark plug electrodes for pitting or impact abrasions, for cylinder temperature indications, and for oil or carbon buildup while they are removed for compression test
3) Fuel pressure check at the schrader valve, and pull and spray test each injector, test fuel injector relays, inspect injector o-rings and bores for leakage, sample fuel and check for contamination.
4) Ignition component tests and ground connector checks, and substitution checks with plug wires, coil packs, and the PCM, and any emission control sensors that gave weak or failed readings.
5) Inspect intake air system for manifold and hose leaks or faulty components.
6) Inspect timing chains and test VVT control unit for leaks, and check timing advance modulator valve not sticking or fluttering due to oil control problem.
From my own experience diagnosing problems on the 3.6 DOHC with VVT the VVT controller is the FIRST thing to develop problems if the oil system is contaminated with different oil types or the oil and filter is not changed every 5000 miles. Clogged vvt units will cause ridiculous misfires AND THE CAMSHAFT CODE !!!!!
And you have those two symptoms together, unlike most misfire situations.
Find a good mechanic. Stop getting screwed by small knowledge wannabe mechanics.
Basic conditions that cause misfiring in your engine: (incomplete fuel combustion in a cylinder despite fuel, air, spark, compression, and timing)
Low compression (bad sealing of cylinder during combustion, not enough pressurization of the air-fuel mixture to get a bang when spark is applied - leaking valve, scored cylinder wall, broken compression ring,leaking head gasket)
Low fuel delivery (injector is not opening long enough or is not spraying well or is not being given enough fuel, or the fuel is contaminated) or too much fuel delivery (PCM is all wrong on fuel mixture)
High air delivery (intake system has a vacuum leak at intake manifold gasket. fuel injector o-ring, or elsewhere, between throttle body and cylinder head, IACV is not fully shutting when it is told to,,,too much air for the fuel being injected) or Low Air delivery (clogged air filter, clogged manifold or throttle body...not enough air to combust the fuel)
Low Spark energy (alternator voltage is low, coil pack ground connections are cruddy, PCM command signals to coil packs are weak or coil packs are fried, bad plugs or dirty, burned or cracked plug wires are leaking some of the spark to the block instead of delivering all the electrons to the plug to make fire)
Incorrect Ignition timing (Bad camshaft sensor, bad timing alignment of camshafts with crankshaft - jumped a geartooth on the timing chain because the chain tensioner is busted, or VARIABLE VALVE TIMING control unit is on the fritz - oil control valve has a bad o-ring, modulator is sticking or has a bad spring, pressure control port is clogged, internal filter screen is clogged, the unit is leaking, or the command signal from the PCM is wacky or the connection is bad. Or the PCM itself is Dain Bramaged and needs repair or replacement....the cylinder is not at XX.X degrees from TDC on the compression stroke when the spark is applied, as is called for)
did you notice where I said "internal filter screen is clogged"? Just checking....